In this guide · Part 4 of 7
Key takeaways
- Follow your printer's quick-start guide first. This page fills in the detail.
- For your first print, use the sample file supplied with your printer, or a small, simple model, with the slicer's default settings.
- On a filament printer, the first layer decides whether a print succeeds, so watch it closely.
- On a resin printer, wear gloves and eye protection, and always wash and cure your prints.
- Change only one setting at a time, so you know what made the difference.
Before you start
- Your printer is on a stable, level surface in a suitable room (see what you need to start 3D printing)
- All transport clips, screws, cable ties and foam have been removed
- Your filament or resin, tools and, for resin, safety equipment are ready
- The manufacturer's slicer and app are installed and your printer is connected
How to do your first print on a filament (FDM) printer
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Unbox and set up
Follow the quick-start guide carefully. Remove all packaging, check that cables are connected and screws are tight, and make sure the voltage setting is correct if your printer has one.
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Update and calibrate
Switch on and install any updates the printer offers. Then run its built-in calibration. Many printers level the bed and tune themselves automatically. If yours needs manual levelling, follow the manual. A sheet of paper used as a feeler gauge under the nozzle is the classic method.
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Prepare the build plate
Wipe the bed with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and a lint-free cloth. Avoid touching the surface afterwards, because grease from fingers is one of the most common reasons prints don't stick.
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Load the filament
Cut the end of the filament at an angle, heat the nozzle to the temperature shown on the spool label, and feed it in until melted plastic flows cleanly from the nozzle. Keep hold of the loose end, because filament springs off the spool if you let go.
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Choose a test model
Use the sample file supplied with your printer, or download a small, simple model such as a calibration cube. Avoid large or complex models for your first print.
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Slice the model
Open the model in your slicer, select your exact printer and filament profile, and leave the other settings at their defaults. Turn on supports only if the model has steep overhangs. Then slice the model and send it to the printer.
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Watch the first layer
Stay with the printer for the first few minutes. A good first layer has flat, slightly squashed lines that join neatly. Round lines that don't touch mean the nozzle is too high. Thin, see-through or scraped lines mean it's too low. If the first layer looks wrong, stop the print and adjust the nozzle height (the Z-offset) or re-level the bed.
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Remove and finish your print
Let the bed cool. Prints often release on their own as the bed cools. Flex the build plate if it's flexible, or use a scraper. Snip off any supports with side cutters and tidy the edges with a deburring tool or file.
Key slicer settings explained
You don't need to change these for your first print, but it helps to know what they do.
| Setting | What it does | Good starting point |
|---|---|---|
| Layer height | Thickness of each layer. Thinner layers give more detail but take longer. | The profile default (often 0.2mm with a standard 0.4mm nozzle) |
| Infill | How solid the inside of the part is. More infill makes a stronger, heavier part that takes longer to print. | 15–20% for most parts; more for functional parts |
| Walls | The number of outer shells. More walls add a lot of strength. | 2–3 walls |
| Supports | Temporary structures that hold up overhangs while printing | Turn on for overhangs steeper than about 45° |
| Brim / raft | Extra material around or under the part to help it stick | A brim for tall, narrow or warp-prone parts |
| Speed | How fast the printer moves | The profile default, which is tuned for your printer |
How to do your first print on a resin printer
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Prepare yourself and your space
Put on nitrile gloves and safety glasses. Make sure the room is well ventilated and at a comfortable temperature, and cover your work surface with a silicone mat or paper towels.
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Check the printer
Follow the quick-start guide, including levelling the build plate if your manual asks you to (many come pre-levelled). Check that the FEP film in the bottom of the vat is clean, tight and undamaged.
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Prepare and pour the resin
Shake the resin bottle well for a minute or two, because the pigments settle. Pour the resin slowly into the vat without going over the maximum line.
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Slice the model
Use a resin slicer and choose your printer and resin profile. Tilt the model at an angle and add automatic supports. Hollow out larger solid models and add drain holes to save resin and avoid cracking. Use the exposure settings recommended by the resin manufacturer.
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Print
Close the lid to keep out light and dust, and start the print. Keep the printer out of direct sunlight, which can cure the resin in the vat.
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Remove and wash
When the print finishes, let excess resin drip back into the vat, then remove the build plate. Lift the print off with a plastic scraper and wash it in IPA or resin cleaner (or water, for water-washable resin). Two washes, a dirty one then a clean one, give the best results.
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Remove supports and cure
Let the part dry fully, remove the supports while the part is still slightly soft, then cure it under UV light until it's no longer tacky. Don't over-cure, because too much curing makes parts brittle.
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Clean up safely
Leave resin in the covered vat only for short periods. Otherwise, filter it back into its bottle. Wipe tools with paper towels, and never pour resin or used cleaning liquid down the drain. Leave resin-soaked waste in sunlight to harden before disposal.
What to print next
- Calibration and test models show you what your printer does well and what needs tuning
- Useful household items, such as hooks, clips, cable tidies and organisers, teach you how parts fit and function
- A new material. Once you're confident with PLA, try PETG or TPU (see 3D printing materials explained)
- Your own design. Try simple shapes in a beginner-friendly 3D design program
Frequently asked questions
Why won't my first layer stick to the bed?
The most common causes are a dirty build plate, a nozzle set too high, or the wrong bed temperature for your material. Clean the bed with IPA, re-level or adjust the Z-offset, and check the temperature. See common 3D printing problems for more fixes.
Should I change the slicer settings for my first print?
No. Use your printer's default profile for your material. These profiles are tuned by the manufacturer and give the best chance of success. Change settings one at a time once you've had a few successful prints.
How do I know a resin print is fully cured?
A fully cured print is no longer sticky or tacky to the touch and has an even, slightly matte surface. Follow the curing time recommended by the resin manufacturer, and avoid over-curing, which makes parts brittle.
Can I leave a 3D printer running overnight?
Many people do once they're confident in their printer. Supervise your first prints, keep the printer's software up to date, make sure there's a working smoke alarm nearby, and always follow the manufacturer's safety guidance.